Friday, August 7, 2015
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
Another A in the Tudor
So, after a lot of troubles with water in the oil, I finally concluded, the block of my first B engine was cracked - see earlier blogpost.
Therfore I've decided to put an A motor in the Tudor, as I have to sell it to raise money to a downpayment on my future house, and the other B I will keep to put in my project. Hence it's no longer a B, I will post updates on the A engine on Dannerrs blog, where I will go through the engine.
Below are some pictures of the begining of the tear down:
First cylinders conecting rod:
Second cylinders conecting rod:
Third cylinders conecting rod:
Fourth cylinders conecting rod:
I'll post here again, when B related topics araise.
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
Monday, February 25, 2013
Bitter sweet news
My first bought B-engine is cracked:
I came up with the idea for a tool- a set of flanges, to put on the engine, in order to pressure test the water canals, to see if they were leaking, using regular fosset pressure:
On the bottom you plug in the water hose, and drain the air from the valve on the flange on the top, where the water pump used to be.
The above is for a model B head, but I even started on a set for the model A:
I guess this is a good and a bad news: the good is, that the tool works, the bad is, my engine is broken! The water flows up right next to the valve guides:
So, next step is to mount a new conecting rod in the old model A engine, get that going in the car, and find out, if this engine can be fixed.
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
I came up with the idea for a tool- a set of flanges, to put on the engine, in order to pressure test the water canals, to see if they were leaking, using regular fosset pressure:
On the bottom you plug in the water hose, and drain the air from the valve on the flange on the top, where the water pump used to be.
The above is for a model B head, but I even started on a set for the model A:
I guess this is a good and a bad news: the good is, that the tool works, the bad is, my engine is broken! The water flows up right next to the valve guides:
So, next step is to mount a new conecting rod in the old model A engine, get that going in the car, and find out, if this engine can be fixed.
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
Friday, March 2, 2012
How to screw off stuck manifold nuts.
Instead of writing yet another blog post, this is done as a do-it-yourself project - however, some of the parts needed for the project in this specific maner, can be rather hard to find.
You take:
1 can of WD40
1 Stereo
1 MP3 player with Agent Orange - in this case an iPhone
1 (or more) hammers
1 set of inch sized socket wrenches
1 set of millimeter sized socket wrenches
1 weight appropriate, danish, former machinist - in this case a nerdy, mechanical engineer, from here on out named "enginerd" as a combination of "engineer" and "nerd", a term invented by my girlfriend
Spray plenty of WD40 on the bolts, and let sit for at least 2 weeks. Do not forget it any longer, as you might end up looking too surprised, when the Mafia-in-law asks about what you are doing.
Then turn on the stereo, plug in the MP3 player and turn on Agent Orange.
Let the frustrated dane scratch the back of his head, until he finds out, he DOES need the millimeter sized socket wrenches - and have him go and pick it up.
Take a (5/8 I belive?) inch sized socket and wrench for the two nuts in the front, and have the enginerd lay his weight in to it. If he comes up short, try to increase the volume on the stereo with Agent Orange playing, and let him try again - this should get them loose. For the aft most nut, have the enginerd hammer a smaller (9/16 I belive?) inch socket on it, and have him loosen it with the wrench. Again, try to increase the volume, if it does not succeed in the first try. For the second aft most nut, have him hammer a 17mm socket on it, and use his weight to untie the nut.
When all the nuts are off, look at them to see, how corroded they are:
After inspection of the nuts (no pun intended!), have the enginerd start hammer out some of his anger on the exhaust manifold in order to get both of them off. When they are off, inspect the water and dirt damage on the manifolds:
And also inspect the intake and exhaust holes in the block:
Afterwards, start looking at the back side of the manifold. Discover it is originally for a Ford-Köln G28T industrial engine, hence the markings:
Now, start to wonder if the entire engine is a G28T. Got to bed. Keep wondering. Finally, fall asleep.
You take:
1 can of WD40
1 Stereo
1 MP3 player with Agent Orange - in this case an iPhone
1 (or more) hammers
1 set of inch sized socket wrenches
1 set of millimeter sized socket wrenches
1 weight appropriate, danish, former machinist - in this case a nerdy, mechanical engineer, from here on out named "enginerd" as a combination of "engineer" and "nerd", a term invented by my girlfriend
Spray plenty of WD40 on the bolts, and let sit for at least 2 weeks. Do not forget it any longer, as you might end up looking too surprised, when the Mafia-in-law asks about what you are doing.
Then turn on the stereo, plug in the MP3 player and turn on Agent Orange.
Let the frustrated dane scratch the back of his head, until he finds out, he DOES need the millimeter sized socket wrenches - and have him go and pick it up.
Take a (5/8 I belive?) inch sized socket and wrench for the two nuts in the front, and have the enginerd lay his weight in to it. If he comes up short, try to increase the volume on the stereo with Agent Orange playing, and let him try again - this should get them loose. For the aft most nut, have the enginerd hammer a smaller (9/16 I belive?) inch socket on it, and have him loosen it with the wrench. Again, try to increase the volume, if it does not succeed in the first try. For the second aft most nut, have him hammer a 17mm socket on it, and use his weight to untie the nut.
When all the nuts are off, look at them to see, how corroded they are:
After inspection of the nuts (no pun intended!), have the enginerd start hammer out some of his anger on the exhaust manifold in order to get both of them off. When they are off, inspect the water and dirt damage on the manifolds:
And also inspect the intake and exhaust holes in the block:
Afterwards, start looking at the back side of the manifold. Discover it is originally for a Ford-Köln G28T industrial engine, hence the markings:
Now, start to wonder if the entire engine is a G28T. Got to bed. Keep wondering. Finally, fall asleep.
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Carbs...
For some reason, I haven't yet braged about the carbs, I've found for the hopped up B!
I'm now the owner of TWO Stromberg 81s!
The first one I found on a swap meet, paying 200,- danish kroner (less than $40!), the second one I bought from the webmaster of the danish Ford early V8 forum for 500,- kroner (around $90).
Looking forward to getting them on, combined with the Scintilla magneto!
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
I'm now the owner of TWO Stromberg 81s!
The first one I found on a swap meet, paying 200,- danish kroner (less than $40!), the second one I bought from the webmaster of the danish Ford early V8 forum for 500,- kroner (around $90).
Looking forward to getting them on, combined with the Scintilla magneto!
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
Monday, February 13, 2012
Top off and into my eye
Yesterday I was in the garage, had finally gotten to take the top off the B-engine, I bought in the fall.
The top had been sitting there for a long time, and it wasn't keen on the idea of getting off. I tried with almost every sharp object in the garage, screw drivers, hammers heads and the only chissel, I have, and finally I borrowed my father in law's chissels for breaking wood - then it budged and came off!
When I got to open it, I could see the second cylinder's valves had been open for a long time, since it contained leafs and dirt.
When I took off the water pump, I accedently fliped it upside down, and I think half of the housing came out as rust!
I started cleaning up the cylinders, discovering that it has already been bored to ,030" oversize. What Nova means, I do not know.
For some reason, the intake valves reads "Ford R" - if anyone knows, what this stands for, I'll be very glad, if you'd let me know!
I got an itch in my right eye, but thought nothing of it. As it kept itching all the next day, only getting worse, I drove to the hospital 23 hours later. They told me, I had a scratch on my eyeball, measuring 1x2 millimeters! No fragments left, and the eye will heal it self, but still a very annoied eyeball!
So I got a patch for my eye.
So remenber: old cars are fun, but be carefull!
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
The top had been sitting there for a long time, and it wasn't keen on the idea of getting off. I tried with almost every sharp object in the garage, screw drivers, hammers heads and the only chissel, I have, and finally I borrowed my father in law's chissels for breaking wood - then it budged and came off!
When I got to open it, I could see the second cylinder's valves had been open for a long time, since it contained leafs and dirt.
When I took off the water pump, I accedently fliped it upside down, and I think half of the housing came out as rust!
I started cleaning up the cylinders, discovering that it has already been bored to ,030" oversize. What Nova means, I do not know.
For some reason, the intake valves reads "Ford R" - if anyone knows, what this stands for, I'll be very glad, if you'd let me know!
I got an itch in my right eye, but thought nothing of it. As it kept itching all the next day, only getting worse, I drove to the hospital 23 hours later. They told me, I had a scratch on my eyeball, measuring 1x2 millimeters! No fragments left, and the eye will heal it self, but still a very annoied eyeball!
So I got a patch for my eye.
So remenber: old cars are fun, but be carefull!
Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr
Sunday, August 28, 2011
How mistakes can turn out for the better
A while back I made a wanted "to buy AA bellhousing", because I wanted to put a Volvo M40 gearbox in Ole-Henry (like Artiki did: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168654), in order to get four fully syncronized gears. I kind of had forgotten it, untill suddently some guy emailed me and said, he had two, a 28-29 and a 30-31. Seeing the possibility of the A clutch housing on the B engine could be a permanent solution, especially if it was fitted with the M40, I thought I could use the AA bellhousings, or at least give it to some other 4banger guy, and made the arrangements to pick them up.
When I arrived, we first had to look at some spare AA gearbox parts, I couldn't use, since I'm only in need of the housing. Then the seller excused for misinforming me, because he had found out, that the second housing was not for a different year of the AA, but it was for the BB! My jar dropped to the ground, and suddently I saw the opportunity of getting a M40 behind my Kölner with the full alu bellypan! So I shook his hand, and the deal was made - from last sunday afternoon I am now the owner of both a AA and a BB bellhousing!
Today, a week later, I got to try if it woud fit the G28T (Kölner) engine, together with the B upper engineside of the bell housing, and it did!
Here with the belly pan:
But I need to make new rear motor mounts:
And the AA fited the A like a glove!
So now I need a couple of spacers, pick up two M40s from the Volvo shed, drill new holes to match them, and figure out a way to mount the torquetube to the back of the M40 or convert to open shaft, and make new pedal mountings.
But I'm not far from a couple of four speed Model A's!
When I arrived, we first had to look at some spare AA gearbox parts, I couldn't use, since I'm only in need of the housing. Then the seller excused for misinforming me, because he had found out, that the second housing was not for a different year of the AA, but it was for the BB! My jar dropped to the ground, and suddently I saw the opportunity of getting a M40 behind my Kölner with the full alu bellypan! So I shook his hand, and the deal was made - from last sunday afternoon I am now the owner of both a AA and a BB bellhousing!
Today, a week later, I got to try if it woud fit the G28T (Kölner) engine, together with the B upper engineside of the bell housing, and it did!
Here with the belly pan:
But I need to make new rear motor mounts:
And the AA fited the A like a glove!
So now I need a couple of spacers, pick up two M40s from the Volvo shed, drill new holes to match them, and figure out a way to mount the torquetube to the back of the M40 or convert to open shaft, and make new pedal mountings.
But I'm not far from a couple of four speed Model A's!
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